Furballs' Little Corner: Furballs' Little Starlet Handkerchief

Furballs' Little Starlet Handkerchief is the fourth charity pattern and the second in the Furball's Handkerchief Collection.  This knitted star is a very versatile piece that one can use as a coaster or cosmetic remover pad.  It is my baseline study pattern to develop a bigger version with more crispy arms and larger in size as dishcloth, Furballs' Lemon Short Row Star.

This starlet has stubby arms and I have to say it does look like a five (5) petal plum blossom flower.  Simply use two colours, two (2) stitches in yellow and the rest in light pink from center out will do it.

For me, the interesting part of this pattern is the cast on and bind off.  The piece is small enough for beginners to learn and improve their skills.

I had tried out a few different types of cast on (with corresponding bind off) and decided on using provisional cast on.  It is a special type of cast on which allows free stitches to be picked up for grafting and joining.  There are many ways to do a provisional cast on.





Crochet hook and scrap / wasted yarn
The most common method you will come across will be using crochet hook and scrap / wasted yarn to firstly crochet a long chain.  Then pick up and knit into the chain stitches to hold the live stitches.  It is the classical provisional cast on, but to me, it is not the easiest and I prefer other ways.

Crochet cast on
To simplify the procedure, sometimes we will do a crochet cast on with scrap / wasted and then knit the first row using the main yarn.  The crochet cast on will hold the live stitches.  The drawback is you have to learn the crochet cast on first, but I think it is worth the while to do so because crochet cast on is a very useful cast on.  I use crochet cast on when I plan to pick up from the cast on edge or I need a more sturdy cast on edge when I cast on in the middle / end of a row, as in one of my pattern, Furballs' Only Tree Standing.  The bottom hanging edge of the tiers are all done by crochet cast on.

Circular needles / flexible cable
You can also use two (2) circular needles to cast on as in doing cast on for double knitting.  The flexible cable will hold the live stitches. As you knit along, there will be the circular needles hanging there and sometimes it is a bit of nuisance lol.  Sure you can transfer the stitch to scrap / wasted yarn or use a flexible cable with end stoppers from those interchangeable needle sets.  Best part is that there is no need to transfer the live stitches onto new needle to start knitting.



Judy's magic cast on
Cast on with the main yarn using Judy's magic cast on.  Knit the first half and leave the second half of the stitch on the cable to act as live stitches later.

I am more inclined using #4 as it requires the least tools and pretty easy to do.  Also I can see the live stitches right on the cable ready to be knitted and I feel better.  I don't know about other knitters, but I find that the last stitch to pick up, when using #1 and 2, is very difficult to identify and usually I will end up with one stitch less and have to creatively make up that stitch somehow :(

In this pattern, there is at least three (3) ways to bind off.

Hand sewing
Start the cast on using any row cast on like long tail cast on, knitted cast on, crochet cast on, etc.  Bind off knitwise.  Then use the bind off yarn tail to sew the two (2) edges together. Piece of cake for those that is good with hand sewing.

Three (3) needle bind off
I am a bit lazy and all for three (3) needle bind off in the pattern, I have put in more instruction for that.  It is a seamed bind off, but to me, easier to do.



WS, Three (3) needle bind off (left) and kitchener grafting (right)

Kitchener grafting
This pattern is also suitable for kitchener grafting since the knitting is in garter and short rows, thus making it reversible (RS and WS looks the same).  It is more time and focus consuming but sometimes worth the effort. I did not spend much to cover this bind off but just giving hints in set up, and those will make sense if you already know how or did it before.  There are many videos in YouTube that will show you the exact process.

Enjoy the knitting, and knit up a few. Try different cast on's and bind off's and see for yourself what you like best.  And please remember, when you use this pattern in full or in part, give generously to your local cat / animal shelters and help them to bring a wonderful holiday to their residents.  Furballs and I thanks for your support in advance :)



 

Furballs' Charity Pattern 2018/ 04
 

Furballs' Little Starlet Handkerchief

Materials
Yarn, worsted weight, non mercerized 100% cotton (0.5 oz. / 13,2 g, 21.1 yd. / 19.3 m) OR acrylic (0.4 oz. / 11 g, 18.3 yd. / 16.8 m)

Scrap / wasted yarn, long enough to make fourteen (14) crochet chain stitches

Knitting needles, circular or double point, size 3.50 mm / US 4, one (1) pair / one (1) set

Knitting needle, circular or double point, size 3.50 mm / US 4, one (1)

Crochet hook, size 3.75 mm / US F

Scissors and yarn needle

 

Gauge (Pre block, garter stitch in situ)

4" x 4" / 10 cm x 10 cm                  20 sts x 48 rows (cotton and acrylic)

 

Measurement (Pre block)

Diameter                             5" / 12.5 cm (cotton) or 4 ³/₄" / 12 cm (acrylic)

 

Abbreviation

CO        Cast on

k2tog     Knit two (2) stitches together

kfb         Knit the front and back loop of the same stitch

k             Knit

RS           Right side

sl1          Slip one (1) stitch purlwise with yarn in front

st(s)       Stitch(es)

t&w       Turn and work

WS         Wrong side

Specialty stitch: Slip one (1) stitch purlwise / part of selvedge (sl1)

Working on both RS or RS,

Step 1   With the first stitch on the left (holding) needle, use the right (working) needle and slip the stitch purlwise holding the yarn in front of the right needle

Step 2   To knit the next stitch,  bring the yarn to the back through the left side of the slipped stitch.  To purl the next stitch, leave the yarn in front

 

Specialty stitch: Turn and work in German short rows (t&w)

Working on either RS or WS and knit up to t&w in the pattern,

Step 1   Turn the piece

Step 2   Holding working yarn in front, slip the first stitch from the left (holding) needle purlwise onto the right (working) needle

Step 3   Bring the working yarn to the back by pulling the yarn up and over the needle.  It is now ready to knit the first stitch (of the next row) on the left (holding) needle.  (note that the two legs of the stitch is now showing on the right (working) needle or double stitch).  To set up to purl the first stitch of the next row, bring the working yarn to the front through the left of the double stitch

When knitting over the double stitch, treat it as one (1) stitch and either knit or purl the two legs together according to pattern 

 

 

Using 3.50 mm knitting needle, 3.75mm crochet hook and a piece of scrap / wasted yarn, CO 8 sts with using provisional cast on

 

(note that there are other provisional cast on methods, some do not require crochet hook and scrap / wasted yarn.  Please use the method you find most comfortable with)

Start knitting in German short rows according to the written instruction below

First Arm

Row 1.1 (RS)       sl1, k5, kfb, k1 (9 sts)

Row 1.2 (WS)     sl1, k3, t&w

Row 1.3                k1, kfb, k1 (10 sts)

Row 1.4                sl1, k5, t&w

Row 1.5                k3, kfb, k1 (11 sts)

Row 1.6                sl1, k7, t&w

Row 1.7                k5, kfb, k1 (12 sts)

Row 1.8                sl1, k9, t&w

Row 1.9                k7, kfb, k1 (13 sts)

Row 1.10              sl1, k11, t&w

Row 1.11              k9, kfb, k1 (14 sts)
Row 1.12              sl1, k to the end of row

Row 2.1 (RS)       sl1, k10, k2tog, k1 (13 sts)

Row 2.2 (WS)     sl1, k11, t&w

Row 2.3                k8, k2tog, k1 (12 sts)

Row 2.4                sl1, k9, t&w

Row 2.5                k6, k2tog, k1 (11 sts)

Row 2.6                sl1, k7, t&w

Row 2.7                k4, k2tog, k1 (10 sts)

Row 2.8                sl1, k5, t&w

Row 2.9                k2, k2tog, k1 (9 sts)

Row 2.10              sl1, k3, t&w

Row 2.11              k2tog, k1 (8 sts)

Row 2.12              k to the end of row

 

Second to Fifth Arm

Starting with the second arm,

Repeat Rows 1.1 - 2.11

Then,

Row 2.12    sl1, k to the last st; slip the last st purlwise to right (working) needle, then using left (holding) needle, pick up the selvedge stitch second (2nd) row below, slip the last st back onto the left (holding) needle, k2tog to end the row (8 sts)

Repeat the above three (3) more times to make the third, fourth and fifth arms (total four (4) times)

*Pay special attention for the Row 2.12 for the last repeat (Fifth Arm), check that the center hole is completely closed before proceeding to bind off.  If hole persist, undo the k2tog, and pick up another stitch that is closest to the provisional cast on edge and repeat the k2tog again until the hole is tightened*
 

Seamed finish (three (3) needle bind off)

Unravel the provisional cast on to free eight (8) live stitches onto a new needle (N2). 

Together with the eight (8) stitches from the last repeat on another needle (N1), use a third needle (N3) to perform three (3) needle bind off on the WS moving from center out

 Step 1   Hold N1 to back and N2 to front in parallel (note the RS of first and fifth arms will be facing each other)

Step 2   Using N3, enter the first stitch on N2 as if to knit (in front from left to right), continue entering the first stitch on N1 as if to knit (note that two (2) stitches are now on N3)

Step 3   Wrap the working yarn around N3 as in knit

Step 4   Pull N3 out together with the loop of working yarn, first from the stitch on N1 and then on N2, as in knit

Step 5   Drop both knitted stitches on N1 and N2 off their respective needles (-1 st)

Step 6   Repeat Steps 1 - 5 (-1 st).  With two (2) stitches on N3, pass previous stitch over (-1 st)

Repeat Step 6 to the end of row

Cut yarn leaving 6" / 15 cm tail

Pull yarn tail through the stitch to secure
 

Seamless finish (kitchener Grafting for garter stitch)

Alternatively, measure out, about seven (7) times or more the length of the 8 stitches on the needle (my measurement is 8 sts = 2", so 7 x 2" = 14"), as working yarn tail and cut  Unravel the provisional cast on to free eight (8) live stitches onto a new needle (N2)

Together with the eight (8) stitches from the last repeat on another needle (N1), using yarn needle threaded with the cut working yarn tail, and working on the RS (note hold N1 in front and N2 to back in parallel, purl bumps immediately under the both needles should be facing front while needles holding parallel; the piece will be folded up and the WS of first and fifth arms will be facing each other; working yarn from the needle in the front) perform kitchener grafting for garter stitch (sequence: knit off, purl on, knit off, purl on) from center out

Finally, weave in all loose end(s) in either finish of choice

Blocking optional

RS, Three needle bind off (left) and kitchener grafting (right)