Wednesday 28 November 2018

Furballs' Little Corner: Furballs' Little Starlet Handkerchief

Furballs' Little Starlet Handkerchief is the fourth charity pattern and the second in the Furball's Handkerchief Collection.  This knitted star is a very versatile piece that one can use as a coaster or cosmetic remover pad.  It is my baseline study pattern to develop a bigger version with more crispy arms and larger in size as dishcloth, Furballs' Lemon Short Row Star.



This starlet has stubby arms and I have to say it does look like a five (5) petal plum blossom flower.  Simply use two colours, two (2) stitches in yellow and the rest in light pink from center out will do it.




For me, the interesting part of this pattern is the cast on and bind off.  The piece is small enough for beginners to learn and improve their skills.

I had tried out a few different types of cast on (with corresponding bind off) and decided on using provisional cast on.  It is a special type of cast on which allows free stitches to be picked up for grafting and joining.  There are many ways to do a provisional cast on.





Crochet hook and scrap / wasted yarn
The most common method you will come across will be using crochet hook and scrap / wasted yarn to firstly crochet a long chain.  Then pick up and knit into the chain stitches to hold the live stitches.  It is the classical provisional cast on, but to me, it is not the easiest and I prefer other ways.





Crochet cast on
To simplify the procedure, sometimes we will do a crochet cast on with scrap / wasted and then knit the first row using the main yarn.  The crochet cast on will hold the live stitches.  The drawback is you have to learn the crochet cast on first, but I think it is worth the while to do so because crochet cast on is a very useful cast on.  I use crochet cast on when I plan to pick up from the cast on edge or I need a more sturdy cast on edge when I cast on in the middle / end of a row, as in one of my pattern, Furballs' Only Tree Standing.  The bottom hanging edge of the tiers are all done by crochet cast on.



Circular needles / flexible cable
You can also use two (2) circular needles to cast on as in doing cast on for double knitting.  The flexible cable will hold the live stitches. As you knit along, there will be the circular needles hanging there and sometimes it is a bit of nuisance lol.  Sure you can transfer the stitch to scrap / wasted yarn or use a flexible cable with end stoppers from those interchangeable needle sets.  Best part is that there is no need to transfer the live stitches onto new needle to start knitting.



Judy's magic cast on
Cast on with the main yarn using Judy's magic cast on.  Knit the first half and leave the second half of the stitch on the cable to act as live stitches later.

I am more inclined using #4 as it requires the least tools and pretty easy to do.  Also I can see the live stitches right on the cable ready to be knitted and I feel better.  I don't know about other knitters, but I find that the last stitch to pick up, when using #1 and 2, is very difficult to identify and usually I will end up with one stitch less and have to creatively make up that stitch somehow :(

In this pattern, there is at least three (3) ways to bind off.

Hand sewing
Start the cast on using any row cast on like long tail cast on, knitted cast on, crochet cast on, etc.  Bind off knitwise.  Then use the bind off yarn tail to sew the two (2) edges together. Piece of cake for those that is good with hand sewing.

Three (3) needle bind off
I am a bit lazy and all for three (3) needle bind off in the pattern, I have put in more instruction for that.  It is a seamed bind off, but to me, easier to do.


WS, Three (3) needle bind off (left) and kitchener grafting (right)

Kitchener grafting
This pattern is also suitable for kitchener grafting since the knitting is in garter and short rows, thus making it reversible (RS and WS looks the same).  It is more time and focus consuming but sometimes worth the effort. I did not spend much to cover this bind off but just giving hints in set up, and those will make sense if you already know how or did it before.  There are many videos in YouTube that will show you the exact process.

Enjoy the knitting, and knit up a few. Try different cast on's and bind off's and see for yourself what you like best.  And please remember, when you use this pattern in full or in part, give generously to your local cat / animal shelters and help them to bring a wonderful holiday to their residents.  Furballs and I thanks for your support in advance :)



 
Furballs' Charity Pattern 2018/ 04
 
Furballs' Little Starlet Handkerchief
Materials
Yarn, worsted weight, non mercerized 100% cotton (0.5 oz. / 13,2 g, 21.1 yd. / 19.3 m) OR acrylic (0.4 oz. / 11 g, 18.3 yd. / 16.8 m)

Scrap / wasted yarn, long enough to make fourteen (14) crochet chain stitches
Knitting needles, circular or double point, size 3.50 mm / US 4, one (1) pair / one (1) set
Knitting needle, circular or double point, size 3.50 mm / US 4, one (1)
Crochet hook, size 3.75 mm / US F
Scissors and yarn needle
 

Gauge (Pre block, garter stitch in situ)

4" x 4" / 10 cm x 10 cm                  20 sts x 48 rows (cotton and acrylic)

 
Measurement (Pre block)
Diameter                             5" / 12.5 cm (cotton) or 4 3/4" / 12 cm (acrylic)

 
Abbreviation
CO        Cast on
k2tog     Knit two (2) stitches together
kfb         Knit the front and back loop of the same stitch
k             Knit
RS           Right side
sl1          Slip one (1) stitch purlwise with yarn in front
st(s)       Stitch(es)
t&w       Turn and work
WS         Wrong side

Specialty stitch: Slip one (1) stitch purlwise / part of selvedge (sl1)
Working on both RS or RS,
Step 1   With the first stitch on the left (holding) needle, use the right (working) needle and slip the stitch purlwise holding the yarn in front of the right needle
Step 2   To knit the next stitch,  bring the yarn to the back through the left side of the slipped stitch.  To purl the next stitch, leave the yarn in front
 

Specialty stitch: Turn and work in German short rows (t&w)
Working on either RS or WS and knit up to t&w in the pattern,
Step 1   Turn the piece
Step 2   Holding working yarn in front, slip the first stitch from the left (holding) needle purlwise onto the right (working) needle
Step 3   Bring the working yarn to the back by pulling the yarn up and over the needle.  It is now ready to knit the first stitch (of the next row) on the left (holding) needle.  (note that the two legs of the stitch is now showing on the right (working) needle or double stitch).  To set up to purl the first stitch of the next row, bring the working yarn to the front through the left of the double stitch
When knitting over the double stitch, treat it as one (1) stitch and either knit or purl the two legs together according to pattern 
 
 
Using 3.50 mm knitting needle, 3.75mm crochet hook and a piece of scrap / wasted yarn, CO 8 sts with using provisional cast on
 
(note that there are other provisional cast on methods, some do not require crochet hook and scrap / wasted yarn.  Please use the method you find most comfortable with)
Start knitting in German short rows according to the written instruction below
First Arm

Row 1.1 (RS)       sl1, k5, kfb, k1 (9 sts)
Row 1.2 (WS)     sl1, k3, t&w
Row 1.3                k1, kfb, k1 (10 sts)
Row 1.4                sl1, k5, t&w
Row 1.5                k3, kfb, k1 (11 sts)
Row 1.6                sl1, k7, t&w
Row 1.7                k5, kfb, k1 (12 sts)
Row 1.8                sl1, k9, t&w
Row 1.9                k7, kfb, k1 (13 sts)
Row 1.10              sl1, k11, t&w
Row 1.11              k9, kfb, k1 (14 sts)
Row 1.12              sl1, k to the end of row

Row 2.1 (RS)       sl1, k10, k2tog, k1 (13 sts)
Row 2.2 (WS)     sl1, k11, t&w
Row 2.3                k8, k2tog, k1 (12 sts)
Row 2.4                sl1, k9, t&w
Row 2.5                k6, k2tog, k1 (11 sts)
Row 2.6                sl1, k7, t&w
Row 2.7                k4, k2tog, k1 (10 sts)
Row 2.8                sl1, k5, t&w
Row 2.9                k2, k2tog, k1 (9 sts)
Row 2.10              sl1, k3, t&w
Row 2.11              k2tog, k1 (8 sts)
Row 2.12              k to the end of row
 
Second to Fifth Arm

Starting with the second arm,
Repeat Rows 1.1 - 2.11
Then,
Row 2.12    sl1, k to the last st; slip the last st purlwise to right (working) needle, then using left (holding) needle, pick up the selvedge stitch second (2nd) row below, slip the last st back onto the left (holding) needle, k2tog to end the row (8 sts)
Repeat the above three (3) more times to make the third, fourth and fifth arms (total four (4) times)
*Pay special attention for the Row 2.12 for the last repeat (Fifth Arm), check that the center hole is completely closed before proceeding to bind off.  If hole persist, undo the k2tog, and pick up another stitch that is closest to the provisional cast on edge and repeat the k2tog again until the hole is tightened*
 
Seamed finish (three (3) needle bind off)
Unravel the provisional cast on to free eight (8) live stitches onto a new needle (N2). 
Together with the eight (8) stitches from the last repeat on another needle (N1), use a third needle (N3) to perform three (3) needle bind off on the WS moving from center out
 Step 1   Hold N1 to back and N2 to front in parallel (note the RS of first and fifth arms will be facing each other)
Step 2   Using N3, enter the first stitch on N2 as if to knit (in front from left to right), continue entering the first stitch on N1 as if to knit (note that two (2) stitches are now on N3)
Step 3   Wrap the working yarn around N3 as in knit
Step 4   Pull N3 out together with the loop of working yarn, first from the stitch on N1 and then on N2, as in knit
Step 5   Drop both knitted stitches on N1 and N2 off their respective needles (-1 st)
Step 6   Repeat Steps 1 - 5 (-1 st).  With two (2) stitches on N3, pass previous stitch over (-1 st)
Repeat Step 6 to the end of row
Cut yarn leaving 6" / 15 cm tail
Pull yarn tail through the stitch to secure
 
Seamless finish (kitchener Grafting for garter stitch)
Alternatively, measure out, about seven (7) times or more the length of the 8 stitches on the needle (my measurement is 8 sts = 2", so 7 x 2" = 14"), as working yarn tail and cut  Unravel the provisional cast on to free eight (8) live stitches onto a new needle (N2)

Together with the eight (8) stitches from the last repeat on another needle (N1), using yarn needle threaded with the cut working yarn tail, and working on the RS (note hold N1 in front and N2 to back in parallel, purl bumps immediately under the both needles should be facing front while needles holding parallel; the piece will be folded up and the WS of first and fifth arms will be facing each other; working yarn from the needle in the front) perform kitchener grafting for garter stitch (sequence: knit off, purl on, knit off, purl on) from center out

Finally, weave in all loose end(s) in either finish of choice

Blocking optional
RS, Three needle bind off (left) and kitchener grafting (right)
 
 

 

 





Sunday 21 October 2018

When A Star Is Born


When A Star Is Born is the third charity pattern in 2018.  It is a knitted stylistic star with five (5) fat arms, and when knitted in more rounds, it will turn into a sand dollar / pentagon shape.  This star is simple to knit and good for beginners that need more practice in circular knitting.

The only challenge in this pattern is the center double increase (CDI) stitch.  This stitch is more commonly seen in lace pattern.  Basically, it is knitting three (3) times into the same stitches, and thus the mother stitch will be slightly enlarged and sometimes make up a hole in the lace pattern. Using larger size needle (and keeping the yarn weight the same) will make the stitch easier to execute.  The resulting hole will probably be larger but considering we are doing garter stitch, it might not be that obvious.



I used this star in two (2) of my recent patterns, Furballs' Last Tree Standing and Furballs' Only Tree Standing.  The star, being simple and easy to knit, suits well in these two patterns.  In Furballs' Last Tree Standing, the star is  either knitted or sew onto the piece or knitted as one to form the topper of the battered Christmas Tree.  In Furballs' Only Tree Standing, the star is creatively to form the topper of the three tiered Christmas tree, and at the same time, knitted as one piece to be used as a button such that there is no need for sewing.  I agree that it does not look like the "real" star but it converses the feeling of a star, and that is all needed in the pattern.  Let the imagination of the viewers make up the "real" star :D




It is also a good small piece to try out wet blocking for beginners.

  1. Wet the piece by immersing in water and gently squeeze out excess (meaning no dripping).  Alternatively, spray the piece with water.  Replace with starch or sugar water to stiffen the piece as preferred.
  2. Lay the piece flat on a thick and firm cork or foam board.  Using sewing pins, pin the center of the piece onto the board.
  3. Next pin the "troughs" (the lowest point in between the arms) in a relax position (meaning minimal pulling from center out).
  4. Finally, pull the tips of the arms from center out and pin on the board. This will accentuate the length of the arms making it more of a star shape.
  5. Set aside to wait for the piece to dry and take shape.
Have fun knitting up the small star to brighten up your project.  Please remember to donate generously to your local cat / animal shelters for this holiday season when you use this pattern in whole or in part.  Furballs and I thanks you all in advance :D

Warning: the star is small in size and could be swallowed and leading to choking or suffocation, so please use it with caution when applying to pet / baby / children knitting


 
Furballs' Charity pattern 2018/3

When A Star Is Born

Materials
Yarn, worsted weight, non mercerized 100% cotton (0.2 oz. / 4.4 g, 7.0 yd. / 6.4 m) OR acrylic (0.1 oz. / 3.3 g, 5.5 yd. / 5.0 m)
 
Knitting needles, circular or double point, size 3.50 / US 4 , one (1) pair / one (1) set
Measuring tape, or equivalent, one (1) (optional)
Scissors and yarn needle

Gauge (Pre block, garter stitch in situ)

4" x 4" / 10 cm x 10 cm                  24 sts x 48 rows (cotton and acrylic)

Measurement (Pre block)

Diameter                             2 1/2" / 6 cm (cotton and acrylic)

Abbreviations

BO          Bind off (k1, ppso)
CDI         Center double increase
CO          Cast on
k             Knit
p             Purl
ppso      Pass previous stitch over
Rnd(s)   Round(s)
RS          Right side
st(s)       Stitch(es)
 
Specialty stitch: Center double increase (CDI)

Working on the RS and knitting up to CDI in the pattern,

Step 1   Using right (working) needle, knit into the back loop of the first stitch on left (holding)  needle.  Do not drop the mother stitch

Step 2   Bring the right (working) needle to the front and knit into the same stitch. Drop the mother stitch

Step 3   With the two daughter stitches on the right (working) needle, identify the strand of yarn running vertical below the needle and in between the two stitches. Use left (holding) needle to pick up the strand from back to front and left to right to form a loop

Step 4   Using right (working) needle, knit into the back arm of the pick up loop

 
 

Using 3.50 mm knitting needle, CO 5 sts using long tail cast on

Arrange the five (5) cast on stitches on the needles, either circular or double point needles, for knitting in rounds

Start knitting in rounds and follow the knitting instruction below
 
Rnd 1     p1 to join, p to the end of rnd (5 sts)

Rnd 2     CDI x 5 (15 sts)

Rnd 3 and following odd number rnds   p to the end of rnd

Rnd 4     (k1, CDI, k1) x 5 (25 sts)

Rnd 6     (k2, CDI , k2) x 5 (35 sts)

               Option
The star shape starts to form, bind off at any odd number row when reaching desirable diameter as prefer

Rnd 8     (k3, CDI, k3) x 5 (45 sts)

Rnd 10   k2, ppso, BO to the end of rnd

Cut yarn leaving 6” / 15 cm tail

Pull yarn tail through the stitch to secure