Hat Up for Santa Claws

 Hat up for Santa Claws is a collection of dishcloths that featured different kinds of hat

The name, of course, was dictated by the furball CEOs in the company, and nothing is more popular than Santa CLAWS who knows exactly what they like and want for holiday seasons.   The original idea is from Holiday Hat FurBELL (on Ravelry) published in August 2020

This collection officially started in December 2020 with the publication of Hat Up for Santa Claws.  It is a simple two (2) colour mosaic dishcloth.  It has the image of a brimmed Christmas hat with a pompom at the end.  This design has long floats (5+) on WS and nothing could not be amended with this technique (on Ravelry) I discovered and developed

I am always near to the festivity when I have ideas, and so testing and publishing for all will not meet the deadline for that year *sigh*

The second one is Hat Up for Santa Claws 2.  It is a two (2) colour mosaic coaster to go with dishcloth.  The hat is different featuring a shorter crown and with a more decorative pompom pompom

The third to the fifth one was designed last year (2021).  You can say that it was out of necessity (again) as I was trying to make some dishcloth as seasonal gifts for friends.  Thinking of something cute, decorative and usable, the hat shape came to my mind.  The image of Hat Up for Santa Claws 3 is inspired by the original Hat Up. The pompom is made with scrubby yarn, so washing and scrubbing can be both done in one go.  The pompom is sewn on normally.  If you can sew a button, you will have no problem with this

Hat Up for Santa Claws 4 came naturally after number 3 to subtlely hightlight their difference with a shorter  and rounder crown.  It has a beanie look and top with scrubby pompom.  It is constructed from pompom down to slip stitch rib brim in one pieces with no sewing required

Hat Up for Santa Claws 5 is a conical hat with a pompom on top.  It is decorative with cables (dont worry, no cable needle needed) and garter stitch brim makes a nice constrast with the knit stitch body.  Just like #4, it is made from pompom down in one piece.  No sewing necessary

These five (5) designs are not the end of this collection.  More to come and hopefully to add them in next year.  If you are interested in more hat and hat related pattern, check out our Egghead Furballs on Ravelry

This is now the year of 2023, and here is the first design in this collection thise year:  Hat Up for Santa Claws 6 向聖誕老人致敬 六/陸. This is a k&p dishcloth with adding decorative tendril stitches.  A total influence from Hat Up for Santa Claws 4

Second one in 2023 is Hat Up for Santa Claws 7 向聖誕老人致敬七/柒.  The hat is constructed in linen stitch in two colours and this make a transition in the hat band.  Decorative motif is added in for interest and also for use in real life as a scrubby pad

Happy knitting and moew meow till we meet again

Furballs' Little Corner: Furballs' Little Diamond Handkerchief

I am starting out a series of blogs dedicated to simple knitting by introducing some common / well known stitch patterns.  They might be simple but totally beautiful.  Furballs and I will published those patterns, with minor add-on(s), as charity patterns. 

Furballs' Little Diamond Handkerchief is the second charity pattern this year (2019) and the fourth in the Furballs' Handkerchief Collection.  The piece is good as coaster, cosmetic scrubby or afghan block.

This time, we are going to feature seed diamond brocade pattern in Furballs' Little Diamond Handkerchief.  On a piece of stockinette fabric, purl stitches are added along each row to make up the visible diamond shape.  The purl stitches also break down the pull of the stockinette stitches, and therefore you will not see the common side edge curling in stockinette fabric.  The more purl stitches (as in Furballs' Cubic Zirconia) or other type of stitch patterns (as in Furballs' Zircon), you incorporated in the rows, the less edge curling you will encounter (obviously there is a limitation to that without obscuring the "diamonds" :p)



Furballs' Cubic zirconia

 

You will find that the seed diamond brocade pattern is usually a 8n + 1 repeat (where n could be even or odd whole number), but it could be (even whole number) x n + 1 repeat with the even number starting at 4. This pattern is suitable for intermediate beginners and up practicing on knit and purl stitches.  Also this small piece will give the opportunity to try out long tail cast on and slip stitch selvedge. 

Furballs' Zircon

Long tail cast on is a very versatile cast on.  It forms a strong and sturdy base stitches for the rest of the fabric to build on.  And why it is strong and sturdy comparing to other cast ons'?  It is because this cast on has an inherited purl row when you working on the cast on, such that in the old time, it was regarded as the first row.  So in some vintage patterns, after long tail cast on, it will jump directly to Row 2.  This cast on will take some time to perfect it, but it is all about muscle memory, the more you use it, the easier it will be.  Also this will form the bases to start out learning the German twisted cast on.  Long tail cast on always has its cast on tail on the right end for Row 1 in modern pattern, so one can use the tail to tell between the odd and even number rows.  Although I do not have any how-to written instruction on long tail cast on, you will find plenty of videos on YouTube teaching this technique

Selvedge is a way to keep the side edge neat and tidy.  There are many ways to do it, and one of the most common selvedge is slip stitch selvedge (you can also check out Remembrance Day 2018 charity pattern for another example of selvedge).  The slipped stitch will tighten up the edge (comparing you will either knit or purl to go up one row using more yarn).  It provides the loops / stitches to for easy sewing since the slipped stitch along the edge will be easy identified.  Also it will make it easy to do pick up and knit (as in modular knitting, entrelac, etc.)

Have fun knitting this little coaster.  With this winter getting wet and cold in the northern hemisphere, please remember to give generously to your local cat / animal shelters (to keep the stray animals warm and out of the elements) when you use this pattern in whole or in part in your project. Furballs and I thanks you in advance :)

Happy Knitting :D

Charity Pattern 2019/2

Furballs' Little Diamond Handkerchief

Materials

Yarn, worsted weight, non mercerized 100% cotton (0.3 oz. / 9.9 g, 15.8 yd. / 14.5 m) OR acrylic (0.3 oz. / 8.8 g, 14.7 yd. / (13.4 m)

Knitting needles, straight, circular or double point, size 3.50 mm / US 4, one (1) pair

Scissors and yarn needle

Gauge (Pre block, stockinette stitch in situ)

4" x 4" / 10 cm x 10 cm          20 sts x 40 rows (cotton and acrylic)

Measurement (Pre block)

Length x Width          4" x  4" / 10 cm x 10 cm (cotton and acrylic)

Abbreviations

CO       Cast on

k          Knit

p          Purl

ppso    Pass previous stitch over

psso    Pass slipped stitch over

RS        Right side

sl1       Slip one (1) stitch purlwise with yarn in front

st(s)     Stitch(es)

WS      Wrong side

Specialty stitch: Slip one (1) stitch purlwise / part of selvedge (sl1)
Working on both RS or WS,
Step 1    With the first stitch on the left (holding) needle, use the right (working) needle and slip the stitch purlwise holding the yarn in front of the right needle
Step 2    To knit the next stitch,  bring the yarn to the back through the left side of the slipped stitch.  To purl the next stitch, leave the yarn in front
Continue to knit according to pattern
 

Using 3.50 mm knitting needle, CO 19 sts using long tail cast on

Follow the written knitting instruction below
Row 1 (RS)  sl1, (p1, k3) x 4, p1, k1
Row 2 (WS)  sl1, p1, (k1, p5, k1, p1) x 2, k1
Row 3  sl1, k2, (p1, k3) x 4
Row 4  sl1, p3, (k1, p1, k1), p5, (k1, p1, k1), p3, k1
Row 5  sl1, (p1, k3) x 4, p1, k1
Row 6  sl1, p3, (k1, p1, k1), p5, (k1, p1, k1), p3, k1
Row 7  sl1, k2, (p1, k3) x 4
Row 8  sl1, p1, k1, (p5, k1, p1, k1) x 2
Rows 9 - 32  Repeat Rows 1 - 8 three (3) more times
Row 33  Repeat Row 1
Row 34  sl1, p1, psso, (p1, ppso) to the last st, k1, ppso

Cut yarn leaving 6" / 15 cm tail
Pull yarn tail through the stitch to secure
Weave in all loose end(s)
Blocking optional

Furballs' Little Corner: Furball's Little Heartlet Handkerchief

Furballs' Little Heartlet Handkerchief is the first charity pattern for 2019 (and I hope I can post one (1) charity pattern a month to gather momentum for donation towards cat / animal shelters). This pattern is just in time for Valentine :D

This pattern features a way to knit the heart shape in flat and in one piece. It is very versatile.  It can be a coaster, a facial scrubby / cosmetic removal pad, an embellishment to sew on other pieces or hanging them in a string for home decoration.  In this pattern, the shape is built up with simple increase and decrease, therefore the edges turn sharper (unlike using short rows) and therefore blocking is recommended to smooth that out for purrfection.  Also because of the rapid increase and decrease, the selvedge is tighter than expected, so minor curling occurs whilst it is in garter stitch. 

One of the advantage knitting the heart this way is interesting colour work.  Horizontally knitted block stripes are viewed as vertical stripes (as seen below: Ninth Heart in One String) without the need to use bobbin(s) or carry yarn creating floats.

 

 

Enjoy the knitting and when using the pattern in part or in full, please remember to donate generously to your local cat / animals shelter.  Thank you :)

Charity Pattern 2019/1

Furballs' Little Heartlet Handkerchief

Materials

Yarn, worsted weight, non mercerized 100% cotton (o.4 oz. / 11 g, 17.6 yd. / 16.1 m) OR acrylic (0.2 oz. / 5.5 g, 9.2 yd. / 8.4 m)

 

Knitting needles, straight, circular or double point, size 3.50 mm / US 4, one (1) pair

Scissors and yarn needle

Gauge (Pre block, garter stitch in situ)

4" x 4" / 10 cm x 10 cm          18 sts x 40 rows (cotton)

                                                    20 sts x 44 rows (acrylic)

Measurement (Pre block)

Length x Width          5" x 4" / 12.5 cm x 10 cm (cotton)

                                      4 ¹/₄" x 3 ¹/₂" / 11 cm x 9 cm (acrylic)

Abbreviations

CO       Cast on

k2tog  Knit two (2) stitches together

kfb      Knit the front and back loop of the same stitch

k          Knit

ppso    Pass previous stitch over

psso    Pass slipped stitch over

RS        Right side

sl1       Slip one (1) stitch purlwise with yarn in front

ssk       Slip, slip, knit

st(s)     Stitch(es)

Specialty stitch: Slip one (1) stitch purlwise / part of selvedge (sl1)

Working on both RS or WS,
Step 1 With the first stitch on the left (holding) needle, use the right (working) needle and slip the stitch purlwise holding the yarn in front of the right needle
Step 2 To set up to knit, bring the yarn to the back through the left side of the slipped stitch. To set up to purl, leave the yarn in front

 

Using 3.50 mm knitting needle, CO 4 sts using long tail cast on
Follow the written instruction below

First Half of the heart

Row 1 (RS)  sl1, kfb x 2, k1 (6 sts)

Row 2 (WS)  sl1, kfb, k2, kfb, k1 (8 sts)

Row 3  sl1, kfb, k4, kfb, k1 (10 sts)

Row 4  sl1, kfb, k6, kfb, k1 (12 sts)

Row 5  sl1, kfb, k8, kfb, k1 (14 sts)

Row 6  sl1, kfb, k10, kfb, k1 (16 sts)

 

Row 7  sl1, k until the last 2 sts, kfb, k1 (17 sts)

Row 8  sl1, kfb, k to the end of row (18 sts)

Row 9  sl1, k until the last 2 sts, kfb, k1 (19 sts)

Row 10  sl1, kfb, k to the end of row (20 sts)

Row 11  sl1, k until the last 2 sts, kfb, k1 (21 sts)

Row 12  sl1, kfb, k to the end of row (22 sts)

 

Row 13   sl1, ssk, k to the last 2 sts, kfb, k1 (22 sts)

Row 14   sl1, kfb, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog, k1 (22 sts)

Row 15   sl1, ssk, k to the last 2 sts, kfb, k1 (22 sts)

Row 16   sl1, kfb, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog, k1 (22 sts)

Row 17  sl1, ssk, k to the last 2 sts, kfb, k1 (22 sts)

Row 18  sl1, kfb, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog, k1 (22 sts)

 

Second Half of the heart

Row 19  sl1, kfb, k to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (22 sts)

Row 20  sl1, ssk, k to the last 2 sts, kfb, k1 (22 sts)

Row 21  sl1, kfb, k to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (22 sts)

Row 22  sl1, ssk, k to the last 2 sts, kfb, k1 (22 sts)

Row 23  sl1, kfb, k to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (22 sts)

Row 24  sl1, ssk, k to the last 2 sts, kfb, k1 (22 sts)

 

Row 25  sl1, k to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (21 sts)

Row 26  sl1, ssk, k to the end of row (20 sts)

Row 27  sl1, k to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (19 sts)

Row 28  sl1, ssk, k to the end of row (18 sts)

Row 29  sl1, k to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (17 sts)

Row 30  sl1, ssk, k to the end of row (16 sts)

 

Row 31  sl1, ssk,  k to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (14 sts)

Row 32  sl1, ssk, k to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (12 sts)

Row 33  sl1, ssk, k to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (10 sts)

Row 34  sl1, ssk, k to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (8 sts)

Row 35  sl1, ssk, k to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (6 sts)

Row 36  (sl1, ssk, psso), (k2tog, ppso), (k1, ppso) to the end of row

Cut yarn leaving 6" / 15 cm tail

Pull yarn tail through the stitch to secure

Weave in all loose end(s)

Blocking recommended

 

Furballs' Little Corner: Furballs' Little Starlet Handkerchief

Furballs' Little Starlet Handkerchief is the fourth charity pattern and the second in the Furball's Handkerchief Collection.  This knitted star is a very versatile piece that one can use as a coaster or cosmetic remover pad.  It is my baseline study pattern to develop a bigger version with more crispy arms and larger in size as dishcloth, Furballs' Lemon Short Row Star.

This starlet has stubby arms and I have to say it does look like a five (5) petal plum blossom flower.  Simply use two colours, two (2) stitches in yellow and the rest in light pink from center out will do it.

For me, the interesting part of this pattern is the cast on and bind off.  The piece is small enough for beginners to learn and improve their skills.

I had tried out a few different types of cast on (with corresponding bind off) and decided on using provisional cast on.  It is a special type of cast on which allows free stitches to be picked up for grafting and joining.  There are many ways to do a provisional cast on.





Crochet hook and scrap / wasted yarn
The most common method you will come across will be using crochet hook and scrap / wasted yarn to firstly crochet a long chain.  Then pick up and knit into the chain stitches to hold the live stitches.  It is the classical provisional cast on, but to me, it is not the easiest and I prefer other ways.

Crochet cast on
To simplify the procedure, sometimes we will do a crochet cast on with scrap / wasted and then knit the first row using the main yarn.  The crochet cast on will hold the live stitches.  The drawback is you have to learn the crochet cast on first, but I think it is worth the while to do so because crochet cast on is a very useful cast on.  I use crochet cast on when I plan to pick up from the cast on edge or I need a more sturdy cast on edge when I cast on in the middle / end of a row, as in one of my pattern, Furballs' Only Tree Standing.  The bottom hanging edge of the tiers are all done by crochet cast on.

Circular needles / flexible cable
You can also use two (2) circular needles to cast on as in doing cast on for double knitting.  The flexible cable will hold the live stitches. As you knit along, there will be the circular needles hanging there and sometimes it is a bit of nuisance lol.  Sure you can transfer the stitch to scrap / wasted yarn or use a flexible cable with end stoppers from those interchangeable needle sets.  Best part is that there is no need to transfer the live stitches onto new needle to start knitting.



Judy's magic cast on
Cast on with the main yarn using Judy's magic cast on.  Knit the first half and leave the second half of the stitch on the cable to act as live stitches later.

I am more inclined using #4 as it requires the least tools and pretty easy to do.  Also I can see the live stitches right on the cable ready to be knitted and I feel better.  I don't know about other knitters, but I find that the last stitch to pick up, when using #1 and 2, is very difficult to identify and usually I will end up with one stitch less and have to creatively make up that stitch somehow :(

In this pattern, there is at least three (3) ways to bind off.

Hand sewing
Start the cast on using any row cast on like long tail cast on, knitted cast on, crochet cast on, etc.  Bind off knitwise.  Then use the bind off yarn tail to sew the two (2) edges together. Piece of cake for those that is good with hand sewing.

Three (3) needle bind off
I am a bit lazy and all for three (3) needle bind off in the pattern, I have put in more instruction for that.  It is a seamed bind off, but to me, easier to do.



WS, Three (3) needle bind off (left) and kitchener grafting (right)

Kitchener grafting
This pattern is also suitable for kitchener grafting since the knitting is in garter and short rows, thus making it reversible (RS and WS looks the same).  It is more time and focus consuming but sometimes worth the effort. I did not spend much to cover this bind off but just giving hints in set up, and those will make sense if you already know how or did it before.  There are many videos in YouTube that will show you the exact process.

Enjoy the knitting, and knit up a few. Try different cast on's and bind off's and see for yourself what you like best.  And please remember, when you use this pattern in full or in part, give generously to your local cat / animal shelters and help them to bring a wonderful holiday to their residents.  Furballs and I thanks for your support in advance :)



 

Furballs' Charity Pattern 2018/ 04
 

Furballs' Little Starlet Handkerchief

Materials
Yarn, worsted weight, non mercerized 100% cotton (0.5 oz. / 13,2 g, 21.1 yd. / 19.3 m) OR acrylic (0.4 oz. / 11 g, 18.3 yd. / 16.8 m)

Scrap / wasted yarn, long enough to make fourteen (14) crochet chain stitches

Knitting needles, circular or double point, size 3.50 mm / US 4, one (1) pair / one (1) set

Knitting needle, circular or double point, size 3.50 mm / US 4, one (1)

Crochet hook, size 3.75 mm / US F

Scissors and yarn needle

 

Gauge (Pre block, garter stitch in situ)

4" x 4" / 10 cm x 10 cm                  20 sts x 48 rows (cotton and acrylic)

 

Measurement (Pre block)

Diameter                             5" / 12.5 cm (cotton) or 4 ³/₄" / 12 cm (acrylic)

 

Abbreviation

CO        Cast on

k2tog     Knit two (2) stitches together

kfb         Knit the front and back loop of the same stitch

k             Knit

RS           Right side

sl1          Slip one (1) stitch purlwise with yarn in front

st(s)       Stitch(es)

t&w       Turn and work

WS         Wrong side

Specialty stitch: Slip one (1) stitch purlwise / part of selvedge (sl1)

Working on both RS or RS,

Step 1   With the first stitch on the left (holding) needle, use the right (working) needle and slip the stitch purlwise holding the yarn in front of the right needle

Step 2   To knit the next stitch,  bring the yarn to the back through the left side of the slipped stitch.  To purl the next stitch, leave the yarn in front

 

Specialty stitch: Turn and work in German short rows (t&w)

Working on either RS or WS and knit up to t&w in the pattern,

Step 1   Turn the piece

Step 2   Holding working yarn in front, slip the first stitch from the left (holding) needle purlwise onto the right (working) needle

Step 3   Bring the working yarn to the back by pulling the yarn up and over the needle.  It is now ready to knit the first stitch (of the next row) on the left (holding) needle.  (note that the two legs of the stitch is now showing on the right (working) needle or double stitch).  To set up to purl the first stitch of the next row, bring the working yarn to the front through the left of the double stitch

When knitting over the double stitch, treat it as one (1) stitch and either knit or purl the two legs together according to pattern 

 

 

Using 3.50 mm knitting needle, 3.75mm crochet hook and a piece of scrap / wasted yarn, CO 8 sts with using provisional cast on

 

(note that there are other provisional cast on methods, some do not require crochet hook and scrap / wasted yarn.  Please use the method you find most comfortable with)

Start knitting in German short rows according to the written instruction below

First Arm

Row 1.1 (RS)       sl1, k5, kfb, k1 (9 sts)

Row 1.2 (WS)     sl1, k3, t&w

Row 1.3                k1, kfb, k1 (10 sts)

Row 1.4                sl1, k5, t&w

Row 1.5                k3, kfb, k1 (11 sts)

Row 1.6                sl1, k7, t&w

Row 1.7                k5, kfb, k1 (12 sts)

Row 1.8                sl1, k9, t&w

Row 1.9                k7, kfb, k1 (13 sts)

Row 1.10              sl1, k11, t&w

Row 1.11              k9, kfb, k1 (14 sts)
Row 1.12              sl1, k to the end of row

Row 2.1 (RS)       sl1, k10, k2tog, k1 (13 sts)

Row 2.2 (WS)     sl1, k11, t&w

Row 2.3                k8, k2tog, k1 (12 sts)

Row 2.4                sl1, k9, t&w

Row 2.5                k6, k2tog, k1 (11 sts)

Row 2.6                sl1, k7, t&w

Row 2.7                k4, k2tog, k1 (10 sts)

Row 2.8                sl1, k5, t&w

Row 2.9                k2, k2tog, k1 (9 sts)

Row 2.10              sl1, k3, t&w

Row 2.11              k2tog, k1 (8 sts)

Row 2.12              k to the end of row

 

Second to Fifth Arm

Starting with the second arm,

Repeat Rows 1.1 - 2.11

Then,

Row 2.12    sl1, k to the last st; slip the last st purlwise to right (working) needle, then using left (holding) needle, pick up the selvedge stitch second (2nd) row below, slip the last st back onto the left (holding) needle, k2tog to end the row (8 sts)

Repeat the above three (3) more times to make the third, fourth and fifth arms (total four (4) times)

*Pay special attention for the Row 2.12 for the last repeat (Fifth Arm), check that the center hole is completely closed before proceeding to bind off.  If hole persist, undo the k2tog, and pick up another stitch that is closest to the provisional cast on edge and repeat the k2tog again until the hole is tightened*
 

Seamed finish (three (3) needle bind off)

Unravel the provisional cast on to free eight (8) live stitches onto a new needle (N2). 

Together with the eight (8) stitches from the last repeat on another needle (N1), use a third needle (N3) to perform three (3) needle bind off on the WS moving from center out

 Step 1   Hold N1 to back and N2 to front in parallel (note the RS of first and fifth arms will be facing each other)

Step 2   Using N3, enter the first stitch on N2 as if to knit (in front from left to right), continue entering the first stitch on N1 as if to knit (note that two (2) stitches are now on N3)

Step 3   Wrap the working yarn around N3 as in knit

Step 4   Pull N3 out together with the loop of working yarn, first from the stitch on N1 and then on N2, as in knit

Step 5   Drop both knitted stitches on N1 and N2 off their respective needles (-1 st)

Step 6   Repeat Steps 1 - 5 (-1 st).  With two (2) stitches on N3, pass previous stitch over (-1 st)

Repeat Step 6 to the end of row

Cut yarn leaving 6" / 15 cm tail

Pull yarn tail through the stitch to secure
 

Seamless finish (kitchener Grafting for garter stitch)

Alternatively, measure out, about seven (7) times or more the length of the 8 stitches on the needle (my measurement is 8 sts = 2", so 7 x 2" = 14"), as working yarn tail and cut  Unravel the provisional cast on to free eight (8) live stitches onto a new needle (N2)

Together with the eight (8) stitches from the last repeat on another needle (N1), using yarn needle threaded with the cut working yarn tail, and working on the RS (note hold N1 in front and N2 to back in parallel, purl bumps immediately under the both needles should be facing front while needles holding parallel; the piece will be folded up and the WS of first and fifth arms will be facing each other; working yarn from the needle in the front) perform kitchener grafting for garter stitch (sequence: knit off, purl on, knit off, purl on) from center out

Finally, weave in all loose end(s) in either finish of choice

Blocking optional

RS, Three needle bind off (left) and kitchener grafting (right)